I'm off this week and away from my computer, so no posting until Monday at the earliest. I may be a little slow getting back to up to speed since I imagine I'll be quite busy, since my boss is returning to work after 6 million dollar man cyborg knee surgery. I do have some pics lined up to post from my spiffy new camera.
Blogging from my phone is kind of cool, but it makes me feel like I have brain damage.
Thursday, December 31, 2009
Tuesday, December 22, 2009
Coolio's Drunken Chicken

That said... maybe all these so called "experts" have their heads in the sand and are ignoring the mighty train of culinary progress at their own peril? You never know. I already owned a baster with a little needle attachment that I've never used... so, hell, why not try it as my last Cookin' with Coolio recipe before the holidays? If the chicken came out dry and terrible from all the little holes, so be it.
To make this drunken chicken, you take a 28 ounce can of crushed tomatoes, pour into a roasting pan, and then you put your 6-8 lb roaster on top. Next get out your giant turkey needle and the aforementioned bowl full of liquor... and just repeatedly inject that marinade all up in there. I won't say my hopes were high when what looked like 99.9% of the liquid just poured right back out of every hole I made with the injector... and that's before we'd even done any cooking. Not promising. I suppose the problem could have been due to my substandard equipment or bad technique, but being that I didn't even get how this was supposed to work on a theoretical basis... I didn't beat myself up over it.
So now I had a chicken punctured with lots of holes sitting in tomatoes and two cups of liquor liquid. Yay? Anyway... then you brush it with 2 tablespoons of honey and before seasoning liberally with salt and black and red pepper. Into a 375 degree oven it goes for 2 hours.
What I got... is pictured above... and guess what? It was actually really moist and juicy. No, really! Certainly as moist as any brined chicken I've made. The skin was also pretty crisp, and kind of reminiscent of BBQ chicken... I really liked the red pepper and honey flavors.
But... but... HOW!?
I really have no idea. Was it the partial braising? Certainly that helped with the dark meat, which was closest to it. Did the honey seal up the needle holes somehow when it caramelized? The honey at least did a great job of getting the skin crisp, in what must have been a very moist cooking environment. Did the injections actually work? It's hard to believe that this is what happened, but I can't reject it out of hand.
If I was really curious (and I'm not) I would make it again, but just pour the liquid directly into the roasting pan to see if it came out similarly. If it did, I probably wouldn't bother with the whole chicken and just do a braise of chicken parts... keeping the honey glaze on the skin... and then make a sauce out of the braising liquid.
In fact, I actually tried making a sauce last night... and it came out O.K... but the BBQ sauce angle didn't occur to me until after I made it and tasted it. What I did was strain it, fat separate it, then reduce until it was about a cup in volume... then add a simple roux from the separated chicken fat and flour to thicken it. Like I said, it was decent, but not perfect... probably needed a little sugar/honey and some hot pepper to bring about the BBQ sauce angle.
So that's the last of my Cookin' with Coolio posts... the cookbook went back to the library today, and I'm going to return to chichi recipes from Saveur and leave the ghetto gourmet-ing to my betters. I have to admit that I was pretty surprised how well both recipes I tried came out... especially given that I was skeptical of this one from the very beginning.
Monday, December 21, 2009
Breakfast

Not much to say this morning, so here's a picture of our Saturday morning breakfast. Just home fries and a tofu scram... continually trying to use up some of those excess peppers from my pickling adventure (we had to throw out some of the habeneros because they were rotting, and just strung up the rest to dry).
I don't have recipes handy... and I don't think Anna even uses one when she makes a tofu scram anymore... but I will say that the secret to good home fries is parboiling the diced potatoes before pan frying them.
Labels:
Food,
Photography
Saturday, December 19, 2009
60!
It galls me to cheer anything Ben Nelson does, but it looks like Health Care Reform is going to be a reality, warts and all. Now lets lock Lieberman in a cage and only bring him out for votes.
Labels:
Health Insurance Reform,
Politics
Friday, December 18, 2009
Coolio's Fork Steak

Now, with the hoity-toity NYT dealt with, on to Coolio!

Believe it or not there is some chuck steak (your perfect braising cut of steak) under all that. Now, the recipe you'll find for Fork Chicken online with the video is slightly different than the one in the cookbook... mainly just in the fact that he gives you more exact measurements. In a somewhat heretical move, I overruled Coolio's request for exactly 6 mushrooms and just put the whole package in... braised mushrooms are too damn tasty to not pack them in there. I also threw in some diced jalapeƱos since I still have some extra after the pepper pickling. I used two, but it didn't really add any fire to the dish, which was a little disappointing (though obviously not Coolio's fault). As far as the beer for the braising liquid, I'm not entirely sure Raison D'Etre would be Coolio's choice... but I figured I'd already damaged my ghetto cred so badly by using an All-Clad pan (it was the right size and had a lid!) that there was no going back.

Here we are an hour or so later... I went longer since I had one steak that was fairly thick, and as the man says: if you can't cut it with a fork it ain't done. Pretty good stuff. It's basically just a pot roast, but with a substantially shorter braising time since you're using steaks instead of a roast. Nice, economical, and a quick prep... the meat was incredibly tender and well seasoned... I've got no complaints, though perhaps ideally I'd reduce or thicken that braising liquid for more of a gravy experience, but that's fairly far afield of Coolio's school of thought.
I'm gonna try one of his chicken recipes before I head down to Baltimore for the holidays, and that will probably be it for our Christmas of Coolio. I can't say I'm going to buy it, but I would say that the cookbook works as advertised... you could do a lot worse for quick and tasty home-style grub.
Thursday, December 17, 2009
Kitchin' Pimpin'

I've only been able to flip through the book to this point, but the writing is strong with the funny... if obviously gimmicky. If you're down with a little light hearted parody of 90's era gangster rap applied to braises and roasts, then you'll enjoy it. If not, then I'm guessing you were never in the market for a Coolio cookbook, so we're probably all set. Oh, and yes, he measures spices in dime bag increments (or peenches - note that pimps don't pinch). Not much of a stickler for spice measurements is Coolio, but he gives specific volume measurements where it's important, and not just a matter of taste. From what I can tell, he is very focused on simplicity and strong flavors with recipes that... and I'm being serious here... should actually appeal to a lot of people. They're not exactly Rachael Ray quick, but seem to be short on the prep time (if not cooking time) at least. I may be wrong, but Coolio might be on to something here... prep time might be more of a barrier to home cooking than how long something takes in the oven. I suspect there is a crowd out there that would be happy to roughly chop some stuff, open a few cans, and throw it all in a roasting pan with a hunk of meat for an hour and a half while they play Modern Warfare 2... but couldn't get motivated to work through a lot of prep and steps, even if you've got dinner on the table in 30 minutes. The argument against would be that this requires some foresight, but as the Kitchen Pimp notes, respectable ghetto gourmets keep things chopped and prepped in their fridge. You have to have standards, I guess... if you can't handle it, maybe you just aren't kitchen pimp material? Something to think about for all you aspirants.
It's really F-in cold here today, so I'm not sure I'm motivated to head to the store, but I am fairly intrigued by Coolio's Fork Steak (he's a big fan of braises):
Wednesday, December 16, 2009
Statistical Fun Fact of the Day
From the Wikipedia article on the Student's T-Test:
I think most people learning statistics think that "the Student's T-Test" is called that because it's a relatively simple and straightforward statistical test (i.e. perfect for students)... but the truth is much more interesting.
The t-statistic was introduced in 1908 by William Sealy Gosset, a chemist working for the Guinness brewery in Dublin, Ireland ("Student" was his pen name).[1][2][3] Gosset had been hired due to Claude Guinness's innovative policy of recruiting the best graduates from Oxford and Cambridge to apply biochemistry and statistics to Guinness' industrial processes.[2] Gosset devised the t-test as a way to cheaply monitor the quality of stout. He published the test in Biometrika in 1908, but was forced to use a pen name by his employer, who regarded the fact that they were using statistics as a trade secret. In fact, Gosset's identity was unknown to fellow statisticians.[4]
I think most people learning statistics think that "the Student's T-Test" is called that because it's a relatively simple and straightforward statistical test (i.e. perfect for students)... but the truth is much more interesting.
Labels:
Science
Tuesday, December 15, 2009
Not so depressing healthcare takes
Jonathan Cohn, Nate Silver, and Ezra Klein all look on the bright side.
Personally, I'm still a little concerned that Lieberman et al aren't finished extracting their pound of flesh... so I'm a little hesitant to pat ourselves on the back about this "historic bill"... but I agree with the sentiments in all three pieces. I think the important thing to do is to think of what passes the Senate as merely the first step... a step that is going to need significant improvements in the coming years. Once there is a framework, it seems it's fairly straightforward to try and push for bringing a robust public option back via budget reconciliation... especially if it looks like private insurers aren't going to get the job done. There really are a lot of hugely important things going on in this bill... not least the subsidies which aim to make insurance affordable for millions of American families.
Personally, I'm still a little concerned that Lieberman et al aren't finished extracting their pound of flesh... so I'm a little hesitant to pat ourselves on the back about this "historic bill"... but I agree with the sentiments in all three pieces. I think the important thing to do is to think of what passes the Senate as merely the first step... a step that is going to need significant improvements in the coming years. Once there is a framework, it seems it's fairly straightforward to try and push for bringing a robust public option back via budget reconciliation... especially if it looks like private insurers aren't going to get the job done. There really are a lot of hugely important things going on in this bill... not least the subsidies which aim to make insurance affordable for millions of American families.
Labels:
Health Insurance Reform,
Politics
The Death of the Public Option
I think I've made fairly clear in my somewhat infrequent posts on healthcare reform, that I don't really care that much about the "public option". It was always my opinion that the forces are just so strongly aligned against Single Payer, that nothing that smacked of it was ever going to make through the sausage factory. If liberals were excited about any provision that they could point to as a possible starting point down the path to Single Payer, then that is exactly the provision people like Joe Lieberman and Ben Nelson were going to zero in on.
That said, it's still a sad day to see the (in my opinion) much better Medicare Buy-In compromise die so ignominiously and quickly... apparently under pressure from the White House (obviously not going to thrill many progressives). Ezra has the reasoning, but I can't say I find it persuasive:
I can't say I normally follow the legislative process closely enough to know how true the first part is, but there seems to be a lot riding on it. While having the bill done before the State of the Union makes sense, it can't be more important than having the best bill possible, can it? Unlike many liberals, I don't think the budget reconciliation is the best way to go in terms of politics (maybe policy), but to take it off the table simply because it will take too long? Ugh. I still don't understand why they didn't even try to make it into a credible threat.
So while whatever bill gets signed will be an enormous step forward, it still kind of sucks.
That said, it's still a sad day to see the (in my opinion) much better Medicare Buy-In compromise die so ignominiously and quickly... apparently under pressure from the White House (obviously not going to thrill many progressives). Ezra has the reasoning, but I can't say I find it persuasive:
The calculation, in the end, was pretty simple. The White House wants the Senate done with health-care legislation by Christmas. The argument is that big bills rarely fail in a dramatic vote. They bleed to death slowly, wasting away amid a procession of delays and procedural setbacks. The longer a health-care reform bill takes, the less likely it is to pass.
Worse, the longer health-care reform takes, the longer it is until Democrats can shift the spotlight back to jobs and the economy. The Obama administration wants to use the State of the Union as a turning point. Health-care reform would be the shining first year accomplishment, allowing the president to begin the election-year pivot to jobs and the economy and the deficit. But if health-care reform is to pass by early next year, it will have to clear the Senate before the end of this year.
I can't say I normally follow the legislative process closely enough to know how true the first part is, but there seems to be a lot riding on it. While having the bill done before the State of the Union makes sense, it can't be more important than having the best bill possible, can it? Unlike many liberals, I don't think the budget reconciliation is the best way to go in terms of politics (maybe policy), but to take it off the table simply because it will take too long? Ugh. I still don't understand why they didn't even try to make it into a credible threat.
So while whatever bill gets signed will be an enormous step forward, it still kind of sucks.
Labels:
Health Insurance Reform,
Obama,
Politics
Monday, December 14, 2009
Allagash to release a lambic?
Clay Risen is on the case of some wild yeast experiments going on in Portland:
Hmmm... that does sound kind of crazy. I can't say I have much experience with lambics... only ever had the fruity ones, and I can't say they do a lot for me. Of course, I'm an Allagash fanboi, so I'll try it regardless of any misgivings about the style.
To anyone versed in conventional beer-making, the koelschip process is an exercise in madness. After boiling the wort and adding a dose of aged hops, the steaming liquid is pumped into the koelschip and left overnight, with the windows open. Wild yeasts and bacteria float in on wind gusts or drop down from the ceiling, which is made of untreated wood boards to give them a hospitable waiting area. The next day the wort is pumped back into a fermentation tank for a year, then into French oak barrels for even more aging.
This is no job for the impatient. Natural fermentation can take a few weeks to get started, and it can last for months or even years. And Allagash only uses the koelschip in the fall and spring, when the Maine climate is closest to that of the Zenne Valley, home to the best of the Belgian lambics; during the summer the air is full of unfriendly bacteria, while the temperature is too high to let the wort cool sufficiently.
Hmmm... that does sound kind of crazy. I can't say I have much experience with lambics... only ever had the fruity ones, and I can't say they do a lot for me. Of course, I'm an Allagash fanboi, so I'll try it regardless of any misgivings about the style.
Sunday Saturday Dinner
I'm not feeling particularly chatty today, so I thought I'd just throw out a "photo essay" on the dinner we made this weekend for our friends who were up visiting:
This is the "Pan fried Pumpkin Gnocchi" from Steamy Kitchen... though we used butternut squash instead of pumpkin. My cute tining did not hold up to pan frying, as you might expect... which is probably why she didn't bother with it... but Anna was doing all the work and I needed to feel useful.

Anna approaches relativistic speeds as she finishes a roasted beet, goat cheese, and candied walnut salad.

Just your basic green beans with lemon and toasted bread crumbs, along with the pan fried gnocchi in the background... the sauce for which nearly set our apartment on fire, for no reason we could figure out... the vinegar just combusted. A little more excitement than we had in mind for the evening.

Finished off with my favorite dessert in the world... tiramisu.


Anna approaches relativistic speeds as she finishes a roasted beet, goat cheese, and candied walnut salad.

Just your basic green beans with lemon and toasted bread crumbs, along with the pan fried gnocchi in the background... the sauce for which nearly set our apartment on fire, for no reason we could figure out... the vinegar just combusted. A little more excitement than we had in mind for the evening.

Finished off with my favorite dessert in the world... tiramisu.
Friday, December 11, 2009
"Sympathetic Control of the Cerebral Vasculature in Humans" is out
Not indexed on PubMed yet, but available at Stroke's website. If you're interested in reading it for some bizarre reason, but don't have institutional access, then e-mail me and I can send you the link to the PDF. You can e-mail via my profile over there to the right.
UPDATE: Now we're rockin' the PubMed.
Thursday, December 10, 2009
The Uber Crock Pot

I had only vaguely heard of this technique before... though I believe Alton Brown goes on at length about the merits of long slow cooking at a low temp in "I'm Just Here for the Food"... but it is intriguing to say the least. I can certainly see the merits from a restaurant's perspective. You can cook things to an exact internal temperature days before you need them... and then just fire them in a saute pan for a few minutes before serving. What more could you ask for for putting out a consistent product?
At the same time, while I can certainly see the benefits and logic behind it, it just doesn't seem like any fun. As Thomas Keller said (he himself a fan of the technique): “Eliminate the need to pay attention and you eliminate the craft.” I guess you could argue that with the craft of cooking food to "perfectly done" taken care of, you can focus more of your energies on flavor combinations and plating and all the other aspects of making a wonderful meal... but I dunno. I think I'll stick with traditional approaches.
However, if, unlike me, you want to give it a shot... but don't want to spend the $450 (plus vacuum sealer) for the "SousVide Supreme" mentioned in the article, you can buy the $140 "Sous Vide Magic" that can control a crock pot or rice cooker heating element accurately enough to use for your water bath.
photo of a Sous Vide Magic setup by flickr user smashz used under a Creative Commons license
Vegan Kimchi Stew

Here's what I came up with:
Ingredients
- 1 tbsp. canola oil
- 8 cloves of garlic, minced or garlic pressed
- 8 shiitake mushrooms (fresh), stemmed and thinly sliced
- 1 small onion, finely diced
- 6 cups water
- 1 package of firm tofu, drained and cut into 3/4" cubes
- 2.5 cups cabbage kimchi with some juice, cut into 1" pieces
- 1 cup daikon, peeled and cubed
- 1 cup frozen soybeans (i.e. peeled edamame), defrosted
- 5 pieces of wakame (i.e. seaweed), rehydrated and roughly chopped
- 1.5 tbsp. Korean chile powder
- 2 tbsp. soy sauce
- Salt, to taste
- 2 tsp. rice vinegar
- Cooked white rice for serving
Directions
- Heat the oil in a dutch oven/soup pot over medium-high heat. Add garlic, mushrooms, and onion and cook until soft; about 3 minutes.
- Add broth, tofu, kimchi, daikon, soy beans, wakame, chili powder, and soy sauce and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer covered until flavors meld and soybeans are tender... 30 minutes.
- Stir in vinegar and serve with rice.
Pretty easy stuff, but delicious nonetheless. Though I wonder a bit whether this recipe is a little too chock full of stuff... should I up the liquid to 8 cups and maybe go for 3 cups of kimchi, for a little more kimchi dominance and better balance? I'm still tinkering, I guess, but it seems to really be a hard dish to screw up with decent kimchi. I am most curious to try making it with some really fermented kimchi... as that's the typical recommendation I've found... but, at this rate, the question is whether my kimchi will even last long enough to qualify as "long-aged". Next up will be searching for a vegan kimchi jeon recipe (kimchi pancakes).
Wednesday, December 9, 2009
A Peck of Pickled (Chili) Peppers

Let me tell you something: simmering sherry vinegar is pungent. Open a window. I would also suggest making a cup more of pickling liquid than you think you need... I did so because I screwed up the sugar and salt math in my head and needed to add some more liquid to get the right ratio for the brine... but after simmering for 10 minutes I had lost enough liquid to have very little left. As a tip for the sugar/salt math... Ruhlman lists it as 2 tablespoons of each for each 3 cups of liquid, which obviously makes it confusing if you are dealing with volumes not in multiples of 3. A tablespoon is 3 teaspoons, however, which breaks it down to 2 teaspoons per cup of liquid... which is probably a little more versatile of a way to think of it, since you probably won't often be making several quarts of pickling brine.
One thing I realized this morning is that I think Ruhlman meant for me to use whole spices... but I used both ground coriander and cumin (even though we have whole spices of both) when I made my brine. A quick Google says the pros use whole spices to avoid darkening... so there you go... that's why mine is so much darker than Ruhlman's. While it's not exactly clear from the recipe... and using ground spices won't hurt you... I suggest sticking to whole spices.
Well see if I have the patience to wait two weeks to dig into these bad boys, but I'll report back when I do.
Tuesday, December 8, 2009
Google Goggles
Pretty cool stuff... I really had no idea image recognition had advanced so far. How long ago would people have looked at you funny if you imagined a world where you could take pictures of things with your phone and instantly be able to find the best deal on it from stores all over the world?
Mass. Senate Primary Today
I totally forgot about this, but Alan Khazei's brother-in-law was outside the Porter Square T station telling all of us commuters that the polls close at 8... so, uhm, oh yeah... primary today! I haven't even really decided who I'm going to vote for... I like Khazei the most from a progressive perspective, but I think he's polling in the single digits. I guess it will be a shock if anybody but the milquetoast Coakley wins... she's been trying so hard to be inoffensive and take no risks that I have to wonder whether she will be a strong enough voice in the Senate. Capuano might have a shot at the upset, and he's my Rep and has a solid progressive voting record, so I might go that way. The only other thing I know for certain is that I'm not voting for a millionaire business man whose money comes from laying people off.
So I guess it's down to Capauno or Khazei. Hmmm.
UPDATE: Cast my ballot for Capauno and my polling location was pretty much empty at 6 pm... echoing reports of overall abysmal turnout. I guess you can't expect too much turnout for the primary of a special election in an off year... but this is one of your two Senators, people! In a state like Massachusetts, which is blue as blue can be, we're basically electing whoever wins the Dem primary for life. So go out and vote! Polls are open until 8 pm.
So I guess it's down to Capauno or Khazei. Hmmm.
UPDATE: Cast my ballot for Capauno and my polling location was pretty much empty at 6 pm... echoing reports of overall abysmal turnout. I guess you can't expect too much turnout for the primary of a special election in an off year... but this is one of your two Senators, people! In a state like Massachusetts, which is blue as blue can be, we're basically electing whoever wins the Dem primary for life. So go out and vote! Polls are open until 8 pm.
Labels:
Massachusetts,
Politics
Monday, December 7, 2009
Pickling Plans
In looking over David Lebovitz's 2009 cookbook recomendations, I noticed in his blurb lauding Ratio (a feeling I share - though perhaps that's obvious since I think this is my third consecutive post with "Ruhlman" in it), that Lebovitz had made Michael Symon's (via Ruhlman) pickled chilis... he also appears to have made a more recent batch of kimchi than the one I cribbed from... so while David Lebovitz and I don't share the same passion for desserts, we do seem to have love of spicy pickles in common.
I guess I know what my next pickling project is... yay for pickled peppers... but that means I need to clear out a jar... and that means, this week, we make kimchi chigae/jjigae (kimchi stew). I've heard you want some really fermented/sour kimchi for the stew, and mine is only a couple of weeks old... but I think(hope) we'll be fine. Saveur has a recipe (not online unfortunately) but this one also looks promising, since it's vegetarian from the start (the authentic recipes include pork)... and I believe Anna has a vegan/vegetarian Korean cookbook. I kind of want to avoid any special trips, but they may be inevitable... at least there's a Korean market in Union Square that isn't too hard to get to.
I guess I know what my next pickling project is... yay for pickled peppers... but that means I need to clear out a jar... and that means, this week, we make kimchi chigae/jjigae (kimchi stew). I've heard you want some really fermented/sour kimchi for the stew, and mine is only a couple of weeks old... but I think(hope) we'll be fine. Saveur has a recipe (not online unfortunately) but this one also looks promising, since it's vegetarian from the start (the authentic recipes include pork)... and I believe Anna has a vegan/vegetarian Korean cookbook. I kind of want to avoid any special trips, but they may be inevitable... at least there's a Korean market in Union Square that isn't too hard to get to.
Sunday Dinner

Clockwise starting on the left, our Sunday meal was: garlic mashed potatoes with smoked Gouda and chives from Cook's Illustrated (subscription required), creamed spinach from smitten kitchen, and pan-seared portobellos from Alton Brown's "I'm Just Here for the Food".
The mashed potatoes were awesome... a 2lb portion of a giant bag of Yellow Finns we acquired from Chase's over Thanksgiving... we both really liked the smokiness of the Gouda with the garlic. I bought about 5 ounces too little spinach, so the creaminess to spinach ratio was a heavier on the cream than intended... but it was still good. In restrospect, since we already had creamy/cheesy dish with the potatoes, we probably should have gone with a less fattening preparation of spinach, but oh well. The mushrooms need a sauce or something, but they really do have an intense mushroom flavor... however Alton's description (1/4" slices, medium high heat, and 5 minutes each side) seemed to way overcook them... I cut it down to three per side and they were much better, but I would also probably have the slices be more like 1/2" to ensure you get a nice crust on the outside before turning the inside to shoe leather. And this advice from Ruhlman a few weeks back still resonates:
Other ways to vary them are to deglaze the pan with some white wine after you've got a nice sear on the mushrooms. A pinch of curry powder can heighten their flavor—not so much that you can taste the curry, add just enough to intrigue. Add whole cloves of garlic and fresh thyme to the oil just before you saute mushrooms, and they'll pick up these aromatic flavors.Honestly, I really felt like I should be deglazing the pan, but I'm just not confident enough of a cook to be whipping up pan sauces on a whim... but even I can throw in a little white wine to brighten the flavors and get up the browned mushroom bits. So next time I sear some mushrooms... a little thicker slices and a deglaze with white wine at the end. Beyond flavor, deglazing with each batch would have also prevented the burned on gunk... gunk that Iget to continue scrubbing off this evening. Sigh.
Labels:
Cooking
Friday, December 4, 2009
Photography Lighting on the Cheap

Clamp on lights or desk lamps with bendable arms will cost you no more then $20 each, but you’ll have to use a tripod because they give out a much weaker light compared to strobes. A steady tripod is important, and even with that you can create camera shake just by clicking your shutter. If you have a “mirror lock up” on your camera, use it. If you don’t (point and shoot cameras don’t) you don’t have to worry, just be careful when you click the shutter not to jar the camera. I would buy at least 3 or 4 because I would adapt them for different light sources.Getting good lighting is certainly the biggest challenge I've faced as I've gotten more and more into food photography as a hobby. The flash on any of your average point and shoot cameras (like my Canon PowerShot) is absolutely terrible... and making sure to turn that off when I take pictures has made a nice positive impact in my photos... but of course, it's not like the flash is wrong when it claims there is insufficient light... so just turning off your flash in bad lighting doesn't exactly solve all your problems. What I end up doing is taking my poorly lit photographs and doctoring them in Picasa... I mess with the contrast, sometimes the color, and sometimes the fill light to try and get end results that look decent, with varying degrees of success. While I won't be challenging Donna or smitten kitchen for "best food photo" anytime soon, I've at least made some progress since last year. I have thought of doing something like Donna suggests... that is, buying cheap lamps that I could keep in my closet until I needed them for food photos... the limited storage space of a Cambridge apartment, however, has made me a little hesitant to go that route.
With one, I would simulate a soft box by covering the light with some white semi-transparent material, like white parchment paper. Poke several holes to vent out the heat of the bulb—we don’t want to start a fire. For another, try attaching black boards to either side to simulate “Barn Doors” (that’s what we call the lights that have movable flaps so you can narrow the angle of flare), duck tape goes a long way. Close them almost completely and you have what looks like light coming through a blind in the window. Use it as a back light just when you want the light to skim the surface (see previous juicy onion post). This will be a difficult one to make work, but anything you can rig up to control the light can be very useful, even just cutting out different sized holes in black cardboard to place in front of the light to make different size spot lights. And try making a lot of dime sized holes in one board to simulate a “grid spot” that creates a soft round spot light. These are all great for back lighting your subjects.
The last light I would leave alone. With this one you can either point it straight up at the ceiling, if it’s a light color, and the light will bounce off making soft over head light—or, point it at a white card to the side of your subject and the light will bounce from the white board onto the subject creating a soft side light. Pieces of foam core that you can get at any art or office supply store are perfect and don’t need to be larger than 16X20 if you’re doing food. You won’t have to use all of these at the same time. Play with one or two add more if you need it. Most importantly, have fun and good luck.
Indeed, while I've decided that I like taking pictures of food I make enough to get an entry level DSLR... what I'm going to do about lighting remains unresolved. I had been planning on following smitten kitchen's advice, and adding a high end flash somewhere down the road (along with a little tripod and remote switch)... but one thing that sets Donna Ruhlman's photos apart from many food bloggers, is her use of light... and that's not achievable by just buying a fancy flash. Do I care about that? Well, not at the moment... I'd just like to be able to take pictures of food at night that are adequately lit... not necessarily expertly lit.
Baby steps, I guess... probably should make sure I can effectively use a DSLR before going too crazy... but it does seem that getting a tripod, remote switch, and a couple of lamps would be far cheaper than a fancy flash and maybe even give me a little more room to grow as far as using light. I'm not getting a fancy flash any time soon, so that may be what I ultimately do.
photo of homemade light box by flickr user rotokirby used under a Creative Commons license
Labels:
Photography
World Cup Draw Today

Pot 1: South Africa, Brazil, Spain, the Netherlands, Italy, Germany, Argentina, England
Pot 2: Australia, Japan, North Korea, South Korea, Honduras, Mexico, USA, New Zealand
Pot 3: Algeria, Cameroon, Cote d’Ivoire, Ghana, Nigeria, Chile, Paraguay, Uruguay
Pot 4: Denmark, France, Greece, Portugal, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Switzerland
So getting put in with the Asian teams means we won't get to play them in the group stage, and being that they're weaker than Concacaf that pretty much sucks. I guess if I was going to imagine a nightmare draw, it would be: Brazil, USA, Ghana/Cote d’Ivoire, and France/Portugal. Obviously any team from Pot 1 (except South Africa) is going to be bad news for the US, so the real key is to avoid France or Portugal from Pot 4, as well as the better African teams like Ghana and Cote d’Ivoire in Pot 3. An important thing to note, is that getting a team like Brazil isn't necessarily the end of the world... as long as you think your team can beat out the other 3 teams for the last spot from your group in the Round of 16... that's why avoiding traditional powers that are on a bad run (France/Portugal) is so important to the chances of the US making a decent showing.
I don't really know enough about the remaining unseeded European teams to guess which of them would provide the easiest draw for the US... but if we get South Africa and avoid France/Portugal, I'll gladly take our chances with the rest.
EDIT: England, USA, Algeria, Slovenia... could have been a lot worse. Honestly, that's pretty good... not as good as Mexico's draw, but definitely not as bad as Group G: Brazil, Cote d’Ivoire, and Portugal all beating the snot out of the DPRK.
picture of proud South African Charlize Theron by flickr user SpreePiX - Berlin used under a Creative Commons license
Labels:
Sports,
World Cup 2010
Thursday, December 3, 2009
Gay Human/Elf Miscegenation Threatens Youth
I don't have anything interesting to post today, and Penny Arcade made fun of the Gay Elf Sex yesterday... so I thought I'd essentially steal this post from Ta-Nehisi, so we can mock WorldNetDaily for being aghast that there is "a popular role-playing combat video game featuring graphic homosexual sex between a man and an elf."
So, without further ado, on to the gay elf bangin'! WARNING: Watching the following may make you gay.
Pretty hot, eh? If that doesn't make you yearn for the gay adventurer lifestyle... having flings with elves "born of a whore and bred to be an assassin"... I don't know what will! Oddly, contra the above video, when my dwarf dude "got to know" Morrigan, he kept his armor on... I guess that's just how he rolls. Can't have getting a little nookie leaving you unprepared for slaying Darkspawn, no sir!
In all seriousness, I do believe this is the first mainstream video game to explicitly allow homosexual relationships... well male homosexual relationships at any rate... unsurprisingly, "hot girl on girl" action has been around for a while. Actually, if I'm remembering correctly, The Sims games have always allowed homosexuality... so I guess Dragon Age would only be the first role playing game with a gay sex scene... but that still seems laudable, or at least notable, to me.
So, without further ado, on to the gay elf bangin'! WARNING: Watching the following may make you gay.
Pretty hot, eh? If that doesn't make you yearn for the gay adventurer lifestyle... having flings with elves "born of a whore and bred to be an assassin"... I don't know what will! Oddly, contra the above video, when my dwarf dude "got to know" Morrigan, he kept his armor on... I guess that's just how he rolls. Can't have getting a little nookie leaving you unprepared for slaying Darkspawn, no sir!
In all seriousness, I do believe this is the first mainstream video game to explicitly allow homosexual relationships... well male homosexual relationships at any rate... unsurprisingly, "hot girl on girl" action has been around for a while. Actually, if I'm remembering correctly, The Sims games have always allowed homosexuality... so I guess Dragon Age would only be the first role playing game with a gay sex scene... but that still seems laudable, or at least notable, to me.
Labels:
Computer Games
Wednesday, December 2, 2009
Life & Limb/Limb & Life
I see via Clay Risen on The Atlantic Food Channel that Dogfish Head and Sierra Nevada have collaborated on two beers... the first a "a 10 percent ABV ale brewed with maple syrup from Calagione's family farm in Massachusetts and hops from the Sierra Nevada estate in Chico" and the second being a "small" beer off the same mash (thus lower alcohol content and less character). Apparently its being distributed by Sierra Nevada, so it should get most everywhere I would think... so keep your eyes peeled.
Admittedly, this will probably only be interesting to beer nerds, but here's Sam Calagione (the Man at Dogfish Head) talking about the collaboration:
Admittedly, this will probably only be interesting to beer nerds, but here's Sam Calagione (the Man at Dogfish Head) talking about the collaboration:
Labels:
Beer
Dragon Age Disaster Averted
When I returned from Maine Sunday night, my computer found a lot of errors on my media hard drive on boot up... this caused me to raise an eyebrow, but no undue concern... that is, not until I tried to play Dragon Age and every single save I had appeared to be corrupted. I'm not entirely sure how many hours I spent on the game, but my character is level 17... so the investment is nontrivial. Not only were my save games corrupted, but the game crashed when I tried to even create a new character. I tried reinstalling the game, and moving the character folder... no dice... and what I eventually had to do was unistall the game and move the Dragon Age folder in the My Documents\BioWare directory to a temporary location so that I could do a fully clean install. Much to my surprise, when I moved my character into the new install I was able to recover my game... the autosaves were still corrupted, but I was able to go back to one a bit earlier that appeared fine.
I doubt this is a problem many people will run into, but I'm putting it out there just in case.
I doubt this is a problem many people will run into, but I'm putting it out there just in case.
Labels:
Computer Games
Kimchi Day 12 - The Eating


Next thing I have to do... hopefully before Christmas, but I guess there's not much of a rush... is make are some kimchi pancakes (kimchi jun) and kimchi stew (kimchi jjigae). I've obviously got quite a bit of options here with roughly a gajillion quarts of spicy Korean pickles.
If you're looking for the recipe I used for my kimchi, you can find it here.
Tuesday, December 1, 2009
Cooking pasta like risotto
This strikes me as one of Bittman's better ideas:
In this method, the liquid is minimized: there’s no need for a gallon per pound of pasta. The liquid is added gradually to the pasta, which absorbs it completely and thereby retains its starch. This makes the pasta creamy and rich; it also gains the flavor of the stock.Worth trying I think. Sounds pretty versatile as a nice way to clean out the fridge, since we always have pasta (but not necessarily the ingredients to make a tomato sauce) and some random veggies we're not entirely sure what we're going to do with. That's the kind of cooking I need to do more of... I'm great at cooking "projects" that need trips to specialty stores and 10 hours of cooking, but not so great a quick weeknight meals.
Labels:
Cooking
Waving

A post doc and I have been trying to use it to collaborate on a response to reviewers, as well as for reading and commenting on a manuscript... to varying degrees of success. I can't say I'm super impressed with how Wave handles files at this juncture, but otherwise it has been nice. We have the crutch of being able to yell across the room as we are typing to each other, and though we have been trying to suppress that, I'm not sure we'll really have a good idea of how well it can work until my boss (recovering from knee surgery) joins in. He's been sent an invite, so we'll see if Wave can ease the productivity hitches inherent with a boss working sparingly from home... seems like it could really be helpful, but we'll see.
Monday, November 30, 2009
This is not a joke
via Ezra Klein
Yes, that does appear to be a gas burner/turntable combo in Coolio's kitchen... so if you've ever thought: "Whatever happened to Coolio? Gangsta's Paradise was tiiiight." (And who hasn't thought that!?) Well, apparently he's been... uhm... cooking. Witness:
I can't really decide whether that is really awesome or really stupid... probably both? Anyway, I feel like I definitely need to get "Cookin' with Coolio: 5 Star Meals at a 1 Star Price" out of the library, and start upon the path to "master kitchen pimp."

I can't really decide whether that is really awesome or really stupid... probably both? Anyway, I feel like I definitely need to get "Cookin' with Coolio: 5 Star Meals at a 1 Star Price" out of the library, and start upon the path to "master kitchen pimp."
Cassoulet Results

As I suspected, there was nearly no meat on my ham hocks. I knew this was likely, since I've cooked with ham hocks from Savenor's before, but probably suffered a bit from some recipe fundamentalism (but the recipe says...) and was unable to adapt when the butcher showed me the hocks were like half a pound, instead of the whole pound suggested by Saveur. I don't know if that's just the peculiarities of my butcher, a difference between France and the US, or something that's changed over the last 10 or so years since the recipe was first published... but regardless, I see the wisdom of buying a couple of ham hocks for flavoring the beans (getting out any meat you can), but generally counting on something like pork shoulder for the bulk of the pork in the stew. As it was, I spent two hours boiling some ham hocks that produced maybe two and a half tablespoons of meat... pretty much a waste, and I would have been much better served coking them in the beans for flavor. I also was not super impressed with the pork rind (i.e. pork skin)... I had never cooked with it before, so that was interesting, and the little bits looked tasty while rendering, but after simmering in the cassoulet for seven hours they were just soft and chewy with little flavor of their own. It's obviously impossible to know how much flavor it imparted, but I think I lean towards cubed pancetta as my favored source of pork fat.
I really liked browning the sausages and cooking them in the garlic paste... that paste seemed to give some nice garlic kick to the cassoulet without being overpowering. I also liked the traditional "layering" of the ingredients in this recipe. The duck confit was also my best effort in that area to date... though credit for that goes to Cook's Illustrated, since the fall issue was where I poached the recipe. The crust formation and breaking (pictured above) was pretty interesting (though a little mysterious - what is that crust exactly?) but I really like the bread crumb raft in other recipes, and am loath to give it up.
I'm not entirely sure how I'll apply these lessons to the next batch of cassoulet I make (other than being pro- pancetta and bread crumbs), but it was definitely informative to make this more... elemental... version, to see exactly how everything works together in their most basic combination. Not sure I'd recommend the recipe for somebody who just wants to try this "cassoulet thing" out, while still hewing to traditional approaches... you'd probably be better served in that regard with the other Saveur recipe I blogged last year... or perhaps the Cook's Illustrated one I linked above (haven't tried it, but it looks solid).
Labels:
Cassoulet,
Cooking,
Recipes,
Stews and Braises,
Thanksgiving
Tuesday, November 24, 2009
Thanksgiving Cassoulet
This is the cassoulet recipe that I've settled on for
"It's all in the little things, the simple things," he answered. "For example, I leave the cassole in the oven for seven hours, at a low temperature. Also, I let a nice crust form on the top, and then break it and let it re-form at least four times."
As Rousselot took another sip of wine, I asked the elderly chef when he planned to retire. "Never," he said. "My dream is to die with an oven full of cassoulet."
The only thing I wasn't able to obtain for the recipe was a ham bone... and I needed like 5 or 6 ham hocks to get to four pounds, so hopefully they'll have enough meat. No bread crumbs in this recipe, which strikes me as unusual, but then what do I know? It seems a more bare bones recipe than I've used in the past, but that's part of what I find intriguing about it.
We're driving up to Maine tonight, so I'll salt the duck legs for the confit before I go to bed. Looks like most of the work is the day before serving, so that's good... I also have to make the pumpkin pie, but probably I can blind bake the crust while the beans and ham hocks are going on the stove. Anyway... doesn't seem too bad. We've decided to go with the caramelized corn with fresh mint and the wild rice, almond, and mushroom pilaf from the New York Times. We couldn't find Chanterelles (not a surprise really - they never seem to be around when we want them) and Anna is of the opinion that margarine doesn't brown, so we couldn't make the cauliflower vegan... or at least, it wouldn't be worth doing so. Green beans will be involved, but I think just steamed or cooked in some other simple way.
That's basically it... this will probably be my last post before Monday. Have a great Thanksgiving!
Labels:
Cassoulet,
Cooking,
Recipes,
Stews and Braises,
Thanksgiving
Monday, November 23, 2009
Thanksgiving Miscellany
As the only meat eater at Thanksgiving this year, I'm not making a turkey (cassoulet instead, yay!) this year... but I still have my eye out for anything turkey related.
The New York Times has a nice recipe slideshow with some great ideas for side dishes and dessert... I picked out the Two-Way Chanterelle and Pear Bread Stuffing (all their stuffings look great actually... why do we only make stuffing once a year? Stuffing is awesome and needs to be made more often), caramelized corn with fresh mint, and roasted cauliflower with lemon brown butter and sage salt. Anna and her mom are usually in charge of all the veggies, but since I'm pretty comfortable making cassoulet and don't need the fine grained planning I did last year for the turkey, I figured I could help out a little.
If you're cooking a turkey, you probably already know what you're doing to it, but I really liked this dry-brined turkey recipe based on the Zuni Roast Chicken over at The Kitchen Sink Recipes... but you'd already need your turkey ready to be salted if you're going to go that route... not exactly a last minute preparation. Though according to Ruhlman, if you have your shiznit together you're starting to make your gravy tonight anyway. That post is helpful in many ways, but the suggestions of using cheap handkerchiefs instead of cheese cloth and using the oven to make stock overnight are particularly good.
The New York Times has a nice recipe slideshow with some great ideas for side dishes and dessert... I picked out the Two-Way Chanterelle and Pear Bread Stuffing (all their stuffings look great actually... why do we only make stuffing once a year? Stuffing is awesome and needs to be made more often), caramelized corn with fresh mint, and roasted cauliflower with lemon brown butter and sage salt. Anna and her mom are usually in charge of all the veggies, but since I'm pretty comfortable making cassoulet and don't need the fine grained planning I did last year for the turkey, I figured I could help out a little.
If you're cooking a turkey, you probably already know what you're doing to it, but I really liked this dry-brined turkey recipe based on the Zuni Roast Chicken over at The Kitchen Sink Recipes... but you'd already need your turkey ready to be salted if you're going to go that route... not exactly a last minute preparation. Though according to Ruhlman, if you have your shiznit together you're starting to make your gravy tonight anyway. That post is helpful in many ways, but the suggestions of using cheap handkerchiefs instead of cheese cloth and using the oven to make stock overnight are particularly good.
Vegan Soul Food Fail

So just bad luck with dish selection or do we not have palates suited to soul food? Obviously, we're not off to a great start, but we plan on at least making Terry's Ital veggie stew before giving up... and if that turns out well, we may do more of his Jamaican dishes.
Labels:
Cooking
AFCN FTL
Quite an embarrassing showing by the AFC North yesterday... but at least my Ravens lost to a good team. I mean, c'mon... the Raiders!?
Labels:
Sports
Friday, November 20, 2009
World of Wingnut
Are you a Glenn Beck fan that feels like Liberal Videogaming Elites are keeping you down? Well David Corn has the game FOR YOU:
Based on my experience with the politics of your average wargamer, I wouldn't be surprised if this does reasonably well... it's a community that's probably 3:1 libertarians in my estimation... but even for the rare liberal wargamer... politics generally aren't on the radar, as they'll gleefully try to dominate the world with Nazi Germany of Stalinist Russia in many a game... hell, I'd bet most would play a kitten killing simulator if it had a hex grid and a solid morale mechanic. So it's probably not a bad call for people appealing to a niche audience with odd demographics, to see if they can drum up any business going the Wingnut Fantasy route.
Honestly, it seems like a safer place to play out those fantasies than by going to a town hall meeting with an AR-15.
It's January 2011. The GOP is about to assume control of both houses of Congress—having been voted in by a public deeply suspicious of Democrats after President Barack Obama conducted clandestine talks with President Felipe Calderon of Mexico and Prime Minister Stephen Harper of Canada. But two days before the new conservative majority is to be sworn in, Obama announces that this Congress will not be seated, that the United States (a creation of "racists and warmongers") will be replaced by a North American Union, that the US Constitution will be dissolved, and that private ownership of firearms will be outlawed (as part of a United Nations treaty banning firearms globally). In response, millions rise up, and the Revolution begins.
A Glenn Beck movie project? Perhaps. But it's also the premise for a new online computer game hosted by a website called United States of Earth.
Based on my experience with the politics of your average wargamer, I wouldn't be surprised if this does reasonably well... it's a community that's probably 3:1 libertarians in my estimation... but even for the rare liberal wargamer... politics generally aren't on the radar, as they'll gleefully try to dominate the world with Nazi Germany of Stalinist Russia in many a game... hell, I'd bet most would play a kitten killing simulator if it had a hex grid and a solid morale mechanic. So it's probably not a bad call for people appealing to a niche audience with odd demographics, to see if they can drum up any business going the Wingnut Fantasy route.
Honestly, it seems like a safer place to play out those fantasies than by going to a town hall meeting with an AR-15.
Labels:
Gaming,
Politics,
Wingnuttery,
World of Warcraft
Busy
Trying to finish up edits to some proofs for that article it seems I've been working on for just about ever... so no blogging this AM.
I didn't take a picture, but not much change in the kimchi this morning.
I didn't take a picture, but not much change in the kimchi this morning.
Labels:
Meta
Thursday, November 19, 2009
Your morning moment of kimchi

Does it look under seasoned? I hope it's not under seasoned. Well, we'll see, I guess. Only 156 hours to go!
Wednesday, November 18, 2009
Worst Rogue Build EVER

First let me say, great blog! Second, let me say I wish I had read it first before buying this book.
I stood in line to get my copy of this book from the local bookstore fearing it might be sold out early. Hot chick on the cover, so far so good. Then I opened it and started reading.
To my chagrin it didn't start out well. I thought well at some point this has to get better. But guess what it doesn't! There's nothing at all about dex rolls, dps builds, searching for traps, sneak attacks, assassins, +4 daggers or anything!
All it is some woman whining about how everyone in her party wouldn't let her make any decisions, about how something called a Couric made her look like a complete idiot (I couldn't find it in the monster manual but, I'm guessing it must be like a Sphinx), and how her group leader McCain wouldn't let her be rogue enough.
Well, I don't even know where to start addressing this stuff. She doesn't even have any daggers! I mean, that's hardly the group leader's fault! She should have loaded out before the quest started!
Plus, on every single page she bemoans her 8 INT build and blames her horrible playing on everyone else! It's her fault for putting all her stat points into Charisma!
To sum up, this book is terrible. It's anti-rogue if anything. If you want a book on how not to be a rogue this has got to be the bible.
I'm going back to the store now to see if I can get my hard earned cash back for this awful drek.
Total Ta-Nehisi bait, but I think he's too busy playing Dragon Age to notice.
Labels:
Dungeons and Dragons,
Politics
Kimchi Day 1 - We have Kimchi!

As planned, I worked off of the Saveur recipe, but also kept an eye on David Lebovitz's adaptation since I was trying for a smaller quantity than the 6 quarts delivered by Saveur, but didn't want to screw up any ratios with the brine and what-have-you.


So with the caveats that I had never made kimchi before this attempt, haven't even tasted this batch yet, and was basically winging it on measurements to compensate for my well endowed cabbage, here are the rough proportions that I used:
- 1 gallon of water
- 1/2 + 1/4 cup sea salt
- 1 SUPER large Napa cabbage, halved and each half cut into thirds
- 3/4 lb Daikon radish, peeled and julienned
- 1/2 cup Korean red pepper powder
- 1 tbsp light soy sauce
- 15 Korean Chives, cut into 1 inch pieces
- 1 medium head of garlic, cloves garlic pressed
- 4 scallions, white and light green parts sliced thiny
- 4 sprigs of Korean watercress, trimmed and roughly chopped
- 1 2" piece of ginger, finely diced and then smashed with a mortar and pestle
- 1 medium carrot, peeled and julienned
- 1/2 Asian pear, peeled, cored, and julienned

While that was going on, I julienned and chopped everything for the seasoning paste and then stirred it all together (see above)... though I now notice that Saveur says to "stir vigorously", which is somewhat ambiguous... was I supposed to be mashing everything together? Well, I didn't... so, uhm, hopefully that's fine.

And there you have it... Chimpanzee Tea Party's first attempt at kimchi. I'm pretty excited about this little project, so you might prepare yourself for daily pictures as I breathlessly analyze the pickling process. Whatever... you'll live... at least I'm not going all Sully on Sarah Palin.
UPDATE: I did finally get around to tasting it and... it was good! You can read more here. Short summary: flavors hadn't completely melded yet, and in retrospect I would have grated the ginger, but otherwise plenty spicy and I really enjoy the subtle sweet notes brought by the pear and carrot.
Tuesday, November 17, 2009
How to "Cryosear" a Duck Breast

Via the New York Times, we get a PDF of how YOU can be a molecular gastronomist... with your very own wire dog brush, block of dry ice, and water vapor oven you can allegedly create the most perfectly cooked duck breast known to man. Yay? You'd think since I'm an engineer, fairly tech savvy, and a big fan of Harold McGhee/Alton Brown's more scientific approach to cooking, that I'd be all over the molecular gastronomy of Nathan Myhrvold... but I just don't feel it. I mean, yeah, this kind of thing is interesting:
While I still intend to cook my confit in fat, it's nice to dispense with the pseudo-mystical hearsay that gets bandied about as justification for various cooking methods... so that kind of challenge to "kitchen wisdom" is quite welcome... but making "stewed prunes that look like coal"? Or "breaking apart a fat and a liquid into tiny droplets and mixing them together into something that had the fluidity of heavy cream"? I mean, most of it seems like such a silly gimmick... is it really so hard to cook a duck breast? I mean, yes, it's challenging, but do we really need all these industrial cooking methods to get it right? I tend to think of molecular gastronomy as tech geeks armed with their pretty little hammer picturing everything as nails.
Granted, most of the field is squarely aimed at restaurant cooks, not the home cook, where maybe it makes sense for a chef to invest in some piece of equipment and a gimmicky technique, to simply set themselves apart from their competitors. In some sense you could say that molecular gastronomy is no more a gimmick than "locally grown organic" as a way to draw diners in... though on the substance, I would argue strenuously for the merits of the latter over the former.
But then, I seem only to ever embrace new ideas well after they've been brought into the mainstream and thus discarded by the hip and edgy... so oddly conservative for an alleged progressive, I am... so maybe in 5 years when molecular gastronomy is passƩ and forgotten, I'll think it's the best thing EVAH... but until that day, get off my lawn with your crazy cooking techniques... I'll cook my confit however I want!
For example, confit, the French technique of cooking slowly in fat, is supposed to impart a unique taste and texture as the fat penetrates the meat.
But Dr. Myhrvold said: “There’s no way it could penetrate. The molecules are too big.”
He said double-blind taste tests proved that the same tasty results could be achieved by steaming and then rubbing some of the fat on the outside.
While I still intend to cook my confit in fat, it's nice to dispense with the pseudo-mystical hearsay that gets bandied about as justification for various cooking methods... so that kind of challenge to "kitchen wisdom" is quite welcome... but making "stewed prunes that look like coal"? Or "breaking apart a fat and a liquid into tiny droplets and mixing them together into something that had the fluidity of heavy cream"? I mean, most of it seems like such a silly gimmick... is it really so hard to cook a duck breast? I mean, yes, it's challenging, but do we really need all these industrial cooking methods to get it right? I tend to think of molecular gastronomy as tech geeks armed with their pretty little hammer picturing everything as nails.
Granted, most of the field is squarely aimed at restaurant cooks, not the home cook, where maybe it makes sense for a chef to invest in some piece of equipment and a gimmicky technique, to simply set themselves apart from their competitors. In some sense you could say that molecular gastronomy is no more a gimmick than "locally grown organic" as a way to draw diners in... though on the substance, I would argue strenuously for the merits of the latter over the former.
But then, I seem only to ever embrace new ideas well after they've been brought into the mainstream and thus discarded by the hip and edgy... so oddly conservative for an alleged progressive, I am... so maybe in 5 years when molecular gastronomy is passƩ and forgotten, I'll think it's the best thing EVAH... but until that day, get off my lawn with your crazy cooking techniques... I'll cook my confit however I want!
Labels:
Cooking
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